I am not 100% sure these goals are incompatible, but I do see many signs that the approach taken to making the AI better has been to make the game less fun.
And there is certainly a fundamental dichotomy among *players* about what makes a game "fun". Some folks get the most enjoyment out of fighting a hard AI on a level playing field, but others like me frankly do not - or do not any longer. If I want a grueling challenge that plays out over months and years I can go back to my job, managing the strategic direction and architecture of a million-line codebase while also coding on (i.e. micromanaging) individual modules. For fun, I want to do flashy things against an opposition that is not a cakewalk; I don't want my win to be *assured* but also don't want it to be dependent on making no mistakes or failing to optimize every variable.
I was very excited to start playing Beta 3 with the promise of more flavor, but after a few hours I found the new magic to be locked behind the same hours of grinding micromanagement that it took to get anywhere in Beta 2, and that overall there were even fewer moments of rewarding progress than before.
I realized that I was simply having less fun per hour than if I went back to older games. After an evening of playing Civ 5, Civ 4, or even even Master of Magic or MoO2, as I reluctantly shut down the computer and go to bed with my head full of what I want to do the next night, I have a feeling of progress - that "to do" list is markedly different from the night before. But after an entire evening of FE I am too often saying exactly the same things as the night before - "Get my heroes up enough to take on those monsters to the NW and see what's behind them, grow my cities." Even Civ 4, which I've stopped playing because I no longer have so much gaming time in a week that I want to take on a 200-hour game, gives me much more of a feeling of accomplishment after a night's play.
The problem is in fact pacing, and I have to agree with the OP that even from Beta 2 to Beta 3 the pace of the game seems to have gotten even more glacial. Perhaps these pacing changes are not aimed purely at simplifying the decision trees for the AI, they certainly come from some sort of philosophical basis, and they are making the game unfun.