Thanks mate, I wasn't too sure about connecting multiple devices after reading about IP addresses for everything and crossed signals, etc.... and the further I read into it the more confused I got. 

Why things can't be explained in laymans terms I dunno... like not everybody's a freaking expert, are they?

I only have a 10 metre ethernet lead running upstairs to my entertainment area and devices in question, so that's well under the 90 - 100 metre limit.  It looks like, then, this Netgear network switch will do the job just fine.

Thing is, I do have wi-fi networking available, and I use that for tablets and laptops, etc, but the TV, Bluray player and PVR each require a wired network connection.  The media player is wireless capable but there can be some data loss/disruption when streaming content to it wirelessly, and the wired switch solves all my network problems at once.  I don't know that I need more than 8 ports, but it's good to know that I can cascade hubs if/when necessary

Anyhow, thanks again for the info and prompt response.

Yeah, I think I'll let DHCP do it the easy way... hard looks too complicated after pulling yet another all-nighter.

The two main PCs will be the only ones sharing a printer, and that is already set up to go in the home network

Again, thanks for the help... though I'm going for a bit of snooze before putting it to good use.

starkers is only using 10/100, I have been using 10/100/1000 for several years which helps with the file transfers between comps, and also will NOT need to be upgraded for the nbn (which ever century it happens in( I live in one of the many areas that are NOT even listed for the next three years schedule so have to make do with mere 8mbit adsl))

harpo

I had an older router I had to manually set the IPs to match the 1st router but I think any modern router is basically plug and play so to say. I would just keep the computer/s you do surfing and DLing the most the shortest route from the modem and router, run the extension to the TVs and such from there.

Do you know how to log in to your routers to access their settings pages? 
I would just do a test plugin , modem ---> routerA ---> routerB ---> computerB, if you got internet you should be able to plug everything else in . If not, maybe we need to set your IP ranges, some brands of router use different ones by default, log into routerB with compterB ,If your router is 192.168.0.0 and its range is 192.168.0.1 to 192.168.0.100 I might try routerA 192.168.0.1 to 192.168.0.10 and routerB 192.168.0.11 to 192.168.0.20 or something like that.

Confused yet 

Or you can pack it all up, send it to Canada and I will be glad to connect it all for you.   

If you do end up needing a switch, I've had very good luck with these: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-GREENnet-Standard-1000Mbps/dp/B001QUA6RA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=Y21RYO2GYYC9&coliid=I2VFJP0Z1EWKKP

Using two at work and one at home right now. All working without a hiccup for quite a while now. Which is more than I can say for my D-Link gamers lounge router at home, grrrr, have to restart that thing like once a week, or else it just starts dropping wireless connections, wired do stay up running fine though.

starkers, the old Netgear DG834G Router/modem will be a problem due to the built-in modem tending to block the use as a bridge/router for a network.

personally I would keep it a spare for when the current modem dies.

harpo

Thanks for the replies, folks, I appreciate it...  I've gained some useful information

Anyhow, seeing as the Netgear DG834G is likely to be a problem for its intended use, I have decided to purchase another 8 port switch for downstairs.  I mean, it's only 25 bucks and no trouble to configure. 

I set up the wireless range extender so we can use our tablets and phones upstairs at the other end of the house and we're constantly getting 4 - 5 bars, whereas before we were lucky to get 2 or 3.  That is a big improvement.

I see that most have answered your direct questions, I will throw some more things out there for you.

Instead of running wires all over the place (My wife made me pick up all my wires), look at using existing wires to connect to your hub/switch or wireless.

Wireless you can buy a wireless bridge that a wire form the TV runs to and then connects wirelessly to your WAP.  (so the bridge sits next to your TV)  Not bad if they are in close proximity (wireless signals lose strength fast).

Or try Powerline Ethernet.  Use your electrical system to carry the signals.  The initial cost of that is a bit more than the wireless bridge (given you have to buy 2 initially), but if you have 3 or more devices to connect (and do not want to run wires), it becomes very economical.

The best thing is most of these things are dumb - which means plug and play.  At worse, you have to connect the bridge to your WAP much the way you would any other device.  But they basically are just dumb forwarders to your intelligent device.

Thanks Dr G.  I do have a wireless extender for in the bedrooms, where signals were weak and wired connections would have been a problem with tripping and such.

For the TV and media player, however, I prefer a wired connection for video streaming from downstairs, given that wireless signals can break up, etc.  The cable running from the router is pretty much concealed and emerges just behind the entertainment unit, so it is not an eyesore or a tripping hazard and provides good, strong signals to my upstairs devices.

Essentially, then, I have my home network up and running, and at little expense, too... a 10m cable and a wired extender = 35 bucks. I already had the rest laying around... I fix their rigs so family and friends bring me stuff they no longer want or need.

I looked into the WD Livewire setup and thought it a good idea, but I already had most of what I needed so couldn't justify the cost at this time.  However, it will be  consideration if I ever need to upgrade the network